Skateboarding –

The most important thing in skate boarding, of course, is appropriate padding and helmets. At minimum, a helmet, elbow pads and knee pads.

Once safety is out of the way, the next most important thing is the skate board. We provide access to Alien Workshop, Birdhouse, DarkStar, Enjoi, Volcom, Zephyr, and many more brands. The basic parts of the skate board are the board itself; the trucks, which connect the wheels to the board; and the wheels and bearings, which is what you roll on. The wheels and bearings are important in their function of providing traction with the ground and preventing friction on the axle. Different wheels and bearings will yield differing performances.

The trucks behave in similar manner to the suspension of a car; they allow the wheels to tilt up and down based upon the ground and users weight. Loose trucks will allow the user to steer more easily, but will react poorly with the ground and make balance more difficult. Stiff trucks are easy to balance on, but take more effort to steer with.

The board itself is where many riders get personal. There are an endless variety of board designs, some collectible, but all of them have in common a couple of features. First, there are the spacing between front and rear trucks. This affects the turning and stability of the board. Then there is the grip tape on the top of the board is what helps the rider keep on the board. This itself can host a number of designs.

Wakeboarding –

This sport is similar to water skiing and surfing, where a single board is rode on the wake behind a power boat. The biggest piece of equipment is of course, the wake board. You can find many brands in our store including: Ronix, Hydroslide, Hyperlite, Liquid Force, and OBrien. Its construction involves a buoyant piece of foam, reinforced with resin and fiberglass. Inserted into the board are a number of screws for mounting fins and foot bindings.

The main re-configurability of the board comes from placement of the bindings and fins, and the board geometry. The boards’ length and width can be chosen to make certain maneuvers easier while others will suffer. Then there is the “rocker,” or the bend in the board from head to toe. The main types of rockers are continuous and 3 stage. A 3 stage is similar to a skate board in the distinct bends at two points in the length, while a continuous rocker appears smooth.

When adjusting the location of the bindings and fins, one has to consider balance and control. Both are affected by choices of the binding locations. The fins determine the ability of the wake board to hold onto the wake. There are a number of different kinds of fins that one can install on their board, and each kind will affect the maneuverability of the board and the ability to do tricks.

Surfing, windsurfing, and kiteboarding –

When it comes to surf boarding, there are just as many variations in a surf board as there are in a wake board. The size and shape of the board is important in terms of maneuverability. There are short, medium “fun-” sized, and long surf boards. The composition of the board is also an important factor. Many boards are now made of foam with either a resin and fiberglass or newer epoxy coating.

Accessories for the board include the fins, which may or may not be interchangeable. The leash is what keeps the surfer and board together. It attaches to the riders ankle and prevents the board from straying too far from the rider in the event of a wipe out. Wax and other materials help the rider to stay on the board. In case of colder waters, the surfer may opt to wear a wetsuit and gear appropriate to not suffer from hypothermia.

Whether your favorite hobby is surfing the biggest waves, skating the most exciting tricks or wake boarding with your friends, having the right equipment and gear really does make all the difference. When you have the right equipment and you know how to use it, that is when you can truly take these exciting activities to a completely new level. The primary concern behind our SurfSkateWakeboard.com website is to provide you with a connection to the absolute finest that surfing, skating and wake boarding have to offer in terms of apparel, equipment and accessories. If you are serious about taking one of these endeavors to the next level, or even two or three, then browsing our shops Surf Shop, Skate Store, and Wakeboarding Equipment is an excellent avenue to pursue. Regardless of whether you are looking for the best swim trunks or the highest quality name brand surf board, professional skates or skate boarding gear or a helmet that fits properly, or a wake board that will give you the best possible wake boarding experience, we know what you need and we can give it to you.

SurfSkateWakeboard.com is designed to connect people who are serious about activity and adventure with the gear and accessories that they need to get things done. We know that you want to perfect the sport you are so passionate about, and that is why we are working so hard to connect you with the gear that you need. We are serious about providing you with top of the line, name brand gear, so if you really are serious about having the best of the best, this is the gear store that you have been looking for.

Photo Credits: 1

Originally posted 2008-09-15 13:42:01. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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The Core

The core of the wheel is comprised of the hub and the spokes. The bearings and spacers are housed inside the inner hub. The spokes and outer hub are what the polyurethane itself is attached to.

The way the core is designed, and the materials from which the wheel is constructed are what give the wheel its stability. These same two things are also what give the wheel its strength. Aggressive wheels tend to have a solid core, while racing wheels tend to be lightly spoked. Your standard hub is generally called a 608 hub, meaning it takes a standard 608 type bearing.

The Profile

The definition of profile is the wheel’s cross section where the wheel and the ground meet, as viewed head on. This profile is what determines the amount of wheel in contact with the ground while being ridden.

Per industry standards, all inline skate wheels are twenty four millimeters thick. However, it is the variation in your wheel’s footprint that provides your wheel with different functionality. The larger the wheel’s footprint is, the better stability and traction it has.

Selecting Your New Wheels

The hardness of the wheel and the size of the wheel are the two biggest factors, so you have to base the choice you make on these two properties. The core does have a significant influence, but it is more subtle. You will want to make your core and profile choices after you have decided on what hardness and diameter you want.

Choosing a Hardness

The harder your wheel is, the longer it will last, but the less grip it will have, and the more road shock and vibration you will feel. The average recreational skater will use wheels between78A and 82A. These ratings generally provide a good balance of grip and shock absorption. That said, you do not have to use the same amount of hardness for all the wheels on each skate. If for the first set of wheels you do use the same wheels all around, you will likely find that different wheels wear in a different pattern or rate. For instance, my wheels always wore the most under the heel, and graduated evenly up to the toe, which wore the least. The heel also wore flatly, while the toe wheels wore more wedge shaped. To combat this, you can use differing durometers of wheels to even out the wear.

Picking a Size

In general, wheels between 72mm to 80mm are appropriate for recreational or fitness skaters. Lighter skaters will find 72mm appropriate, while mid-weight skaters will generally want 76mm. Heavier skaters will want 80mm or larger. You will also want the larger diameter wheel if you plan to speed skate, are going to be going long distances, or practicing short sprints, something like 84mm or larger will be appropriate.

Just how large a wheel you can use is limited by the design of the skate, so you need to keep that in mind when purchasing your inline skates.

Photo Credits: Paleontour

Originally posted 2009-10-16 03:58:24. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Now, the first question to ask in regards to inline skates and figuring out which is right for you, is what you will be doing on the skates you buy? If you are a novice, then you should start out on a basic recreational skate, and learn all of the basics of inline skating. If you have already been riding inline skates for awhile, then it comes down to what you want to do.

Recreational Skates

By far the most popular type of skate is the recreational skate. Recreational skates are designed for anyone who simply wishes to put on a pair of skates and roll. They are generally good for use on any urban surface. Pretty much every maker of inline skates will have at least one model of recreational skate, and more than likely, they will have many more. Different skates will have different features and be made from different materials. There are numerous types of enclosure systems, and they will have nearly as many ways to secure them to your feet.

Aggressive Skates

Aggressive skates much more closely resemble inline skates as they were first introduced. They employ a more boot like appearance for overall durability, with reinforced frames. The wheels tend to be smaller and harder for landing tricks. Also, more oft than not, they will have smaller center wheels and grind plates installed, as well as having reinforced boot heels for the various grinds and slides that can be done.

Hockey Skates

Inline hockey skates are pretty much exact replicas of ice hockey skates, but with wheels. The boot design is the same, and the wheel frames are made to be durable, stiff, and light weight.

Speed Skates

If you like going fast, like competition, or even both, then speed skates are for you. Speed skates are built similar to running shoes. Low profile, light, with a slightly raised heel, and sporting 5 wheels on each foot, these things are all about one thing, and that is going fast. It should be noted that speed skating is for those of a high fitness level.

Photo Credits: cesarastudillo

Originally posted 2009-10-13 03:18:18. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Out of the box, most inline skates are configured in what is known as a “flat setup”. All three, four, or five (child’s skate, standard recreational or short racing skate, and full size racing skate wheel counts, respectively) wheeled skates will have the wheels set at the same height. This is a flat setup, and is an all around good way to start out skating. It is also the standard setup for recreational / fitness skating.

The next main setup is known as a full rocker, or banana / crescent. This involves setting your front and back wheels slight higher than your middle two wheels. This is going to provide the inline skater with great maneuverability, which is good for those who wish to emulate ice skating on dry land. It also provides less stability, so balance can be an issue. Obviously it should go without saying that use of full rockering should be used with great care, and then only by skilled inline skaters. Novice inline skaters will likely find them selves unable to control their direction very well, and will also spend large amounts of time on the ground, possibly with skinned palms or knees.

The next type of rocker is called a front rocker. This style of rockering has the lead wheel on each skate set high, with the trailing 3 in their regular placement. This rockering style is generally used by street skaters, and has two main purposes: the high front wheel allows the skate to better go over imperfections in the ground instead of digging in and stopping, while the remaining 3 flat wheels still provide you with a decent flat profile for pushing power, so that good speed can be kept.

Another type of front rocker setup is one sometimes used by inline hockey skaters, and involves the rockering of the rear 2 wheels, and using smaller wheels for the front two. This makes it resemble a flat setup, sine all 4 wheels are in fact touching the ground. It is purported that this setup provides better maneuvering in corners while still giving the speed of larger wheels when going straight, but this is debatable.

Lastly is the anti-rocker setup. This is the reverse of standard rockering, in that your front and back wheels will be on the ground, while your middle two will not. This, coupled with devices called “grind plates” facilitate ease of sliding along hand railings, curbs, benches, and other surfaces on which an aggressive, or trick skater may wish to grind. The means by which this rocker is accomplished can be done in one of two ways: use small wheels for the two center wheels, or raise the center two wheels. The use of small wheels is the most prevalent means.

Photo Credits: digicla

Originally posted 2009-10-09 03:47:12. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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When you are out shopping for that perfect diamond engagement ring, if you have done your homework your choice of diamond will be based on a set of criteria known as the 4 C’s. Well, buying wheels for your inline skates also has its four basic criteria to be considered: your body weight, your skating level (novice, intermediate, advanced, pro), your skating style, and lastly, your comfort zone in regards to speed. There are 4 properties, those being size, profile, core, and hardness. These are all equally important, since they all have a direct bearing on your choice of wheels.

First up, we will go over the hardness, or durometer, of the wheel. The higher the durometer is, the higher the hardness of the wheel. Harder wheels will last much longer, but they will also transmit much more of the bumps and shocks of the ground to your foot and knees. In general, you will be able to find wheels in the range of 74A which is the softest, up to 88A, which is quite hard. The A denotes the durometer scale. The average recreational skater will be interested in wheels in the range of 78A to 82A, since these wheels provide a fairly decent compromise between grip and smoothness or roll.

In general, you will want harder wheels for skating on smooth surfaces like skating rinks or smooth concrete, if you are a heavier skater, or you value your wheels lasting longer over comfort of ride. In contrast, a lower durometer wheel will be wanted if you will be riding on streets and other rough surfaces a lot, area lighter rider, desire better shock absorption or just want better traction overall.

Next up is wheel size. Larger wheels will allow you to skate faster since they will provide less rolling resistance. Sadly, as you get larger, stability goes down, and requires the skater to be of higher ability to make good use of them. Smaller wheels will have lower top speed, but will provide for a much more stable ride. Aggressive skaters will generally go for smaller wheels for stability, because speed is not quite as much of an issue, whereas speed skaters will use the much larger diameter wheels for the decreased rolling resistance. Recreational skaters will generally find themselves with a choice of wheels between 72mm and 80mm. Be sure to check the users manual for your particular skates, because different models will have limits to the minimum and maximum wheel sizes they accommodate.

There will be more about wheels next time. Trust us, there is plenty to be said!

Photo Credits: y_katsuuu

Originally posted 2009-10-06 03:24:20. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Recently there has been some information that skate parks and boards have been undergoing some changes over the years. Many of these changes are very high tech and will change the way that skateboarding is done forever. The materials that are used in skate parks has fueled a whole new interest in the design and building of the best skate parks in the sport.

There are some changes to skate parks in the area of water collection. Many times a hover board park or skate park will serve as a water collection area as well as the skate park. They must have high tech draining, filtration and methods for bringing the water where it needs to be after it is collected in the skate park.

The high tech deck skate park of the future can be an important part of your community. The simple fact is that if your city or town does not have a skate park, kids will skate in areas where you might not want them to be. When the town makes the decision to build a skate park, there is a greater ability to enforce safety rules and make sure that kids have a smaller chance of being injured while skateboarding. This is a great point to bring up to the city when you are lobbying for a skate park.

The skate parks can be designed to increase the fun that a skater will have while at the same time keeping everyone as safe as possible. If you don’t want the neighborhood kids using a vacant parking lot for skating, then a high tech deck skate park is the answer.

The sport has evolved over time to include many innovations in the boards and the tricks that they are able to accomplish. The skate parks have developed over time as well to become a safe place for kids to hang out and try their hand at the tricks that the pros use. It is also a great place to hold exhibitions for professional skateboarders to come and have events that local kids can participate in with their favorite pros.

With a little time and investment, a high tech deck skate park is a worthwhile addition to any community. When kids have a place to go where they can practice their tricks on the skateboard, there will be much less chance of kids skateboarding down city sidewalks creating an unsafe environment for pedestrians.

If your child is skateboarding, make sure that they are wearing the proper safety equipment while they are at the skate park. Helmets, knee pads and elbow pads should be worn to avoid serious injury. Make certain that your child has this equipment while they are at the local skate park.

Photo Credits: JanetandPhil

Originally posted 2009-06-04 05:54:25. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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These tolerances only mean something if the bearings are used in the capacity they were intended, which is high speed and precision industrial machinery. So for all that cash you threw down on some ultra machined, cryogenically treated ABEC 9 bearings, you might as well have just bought ABEC 1 bearings, because after about 5 minutes of riding, you won’t be able to tell the ABEC 9 from the ABEC 1. As far as speed goes, the only way those ultra fancy ABEC 9 bearings would begin to show you any benefit is if you were able to reach a speed of about 240MPH on a perfectly smooth surface, with 65mm wheels and grease as a lubricant.

If you want to know what things make a greater difference in regards to speed and bearing longevity, look at things like the type of seal used, as well as the materials used to make the ball bearings themselves, not to mention the precision at which the ball bearings were made. Harder bearings will last longer, and rounder bearings will roll truer, longer, and probably faster. Most ball bearings are made of either stainless steel, or chrome steel. However, as previously mentioned, you can get bearings that use ceramic for the balls from companies like Bones with their Swiss and Redz lines, and Quadline.

While there is no evidence these bearings are inherently any faster, one could come to the conclusion that they are superior due to greater hardness, and the fact they will not corrode like stainless and chrome steel balls will. They also will be lighter (though with being so small the weight savings is negligible), as well as having superior heat dissipation, for what that might be worth. They also require less lubrication that standard steel skate bearings.

Speaking of lubrication, this is one of the other methods by which you can actually make a difference in your skate speed and overall rolling distance, as well as significantly increase the life of your bearings. Teflon based oil lubricants work quite well (one article I read said Slick 50 One Lube was the trick). WD 40 can also be used, but being mostly liquid, they will offer no protection once the lubricant has been expelled. Personally, I only used WD 40 to de grease dirty bearings for re-packing. One could also use lithium based grease for longevity of the grease, while maintaining a lighter weight like oil for speed.

So there you have it, the real scoop on ABEC ratings. Feel free to educate your buddies on this stuff, or further look things up yourself for further learning.

Photo Credits: Wondershock

Originally posted 2009-09-24 03:21:37. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Needless to say, “German” bearings were the bees’ knees. They rolled smoother, longer, and generally faster. They were of much higher quality through and through, while the “American” bearings had cheap shields, generally a press fit cap style. They were sloppy and wore out quickly, as well as being slow in general. If you were rich, you could buy a pack of Bones “Swiss” high precision ceramic bearings, and you would get all the notoriety that came with it, provided you could skate worth a darn. One of the terms tossed around with the “German” bearings was “German Industrial Grade 3” bearings. Those, per all of my skateboarding buddies, were the best, bar none. They made you roll faster, ollie higher, kick flip more accurately, and anything else that could be attributed to such mythically awesome bearings.

If only us kids knew then what can be known now, we would have saved ourselves and our friends some cash, which we could then have spent on more important things like Garbage Pail Kids, marbles, skate shop stickers, and M.U.S.C.L.E. men, among other things. But I digress. Today’s ABEC ratings share a lot of similarities with the bearings of old that I and my friends knew, especially when it comes to sales pitches. Most notable of all being that a higher number equates to a better bearing. Now this is not entirely a lie. In certain industries, a higher number is indeed better. But this would be for reasons that pretty much mean jack for inline skaters and skateboarders alike.

You see, ABEC ratings cover a whole load of tolerance requirements for a bearing, but not much in regards to component quality, lubricant types, or any of that. So basically, ABEC ratings mean next to nothing for skaters at all. The tolerances and precisions that ABEC ratings deal with get mangled in the first few minutes of the bearings life by the simple act of getting on and riding down the sidewalk.

What am I talking about exactly? Well, let us just use the facts: ABEC ratings only specify the eccentricity of the bearings inner ring, or rather, its out of roundness. ABEC 1, the lowest grade, the max allowed out of roundness is .0075mm. As you can see, that’s pretty darn precise already. ABEC 3 is .005mm, ABEC 5 is .0035mm, ABEC 7 is .0025mm, and ABEC 9 is .0012mm.

Continued in part 2.

Photo Credits: Josh [unemployed IT dude]

Originally posted 2009-09-21 03:15:01. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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When you are skating on a surface that is flat using quad skates or inline skates, the safest and the most efficient way for you to achieve forward motion is for you to utilize side push in conjunction with only a minimal amount of body movement.

If you treat each skating foot as if it were an individual scooter, then the forward motion would come from keeping your body weight over only one skate at a time, the employed skate, while you are pushing to the side and then back using the other skate, which is the free skate. The more control that a skater has while keeping the feet close for the purpose of transferring feet, and the more that the skater is able to keep his or her body over the supporting skate or employed skater, the faster the skater will go and the safer he or she will be.

Skating occurs when a number of different right foot and left foot pushes are completed in a sequence, maintaining the concept of using each foot as if it were an individual scooter in order to generate the right amount of momentum. The only body movement that is required is a very slight shift of the skater’s weight in order to keep the main weight behind the head, the chest and the hips situated above the skate that is rolling.

Rollerblading or inline skating techniques are not difficult to learn, but it does take some practice to perfect moves like these in order to get the most out of the basic mechanics behind the sport. If you are not roller skating in this manner, then you are probably utilizing more energy than you should need to, making your inline skating inefficient. If you want to get the most out of your inline skating habit, you have to make sure that you are getting the most out of the mechanics behind the use of roller skates. When you perfect the art of the basic momentum and mechanics of inline skating, that is when you can effectively graduate into tricks and other skating endeavors to get the most out of what your skates are capable of.

Photo Credits: vanlaar

Originally posted 2009-09-04 03:33:50. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Regardless of which inline skate manufacturing company is responsible for building a specific pair of inline skates, most inline skates are simply known as rollerblades in this day and age. The name Rollerblade has become the symbol of inline skating for most people, unfortunately overshadowing a large number of inline skate manufacturers as well as leaving out a lot of information pertaining to the history of inline skating and rollerblading. Many people, despite having skated for years, are unaware of the true history of inline skating, attributing the design and invention of inline skates to Rollerblade, Inc. when they are not actually responsible for the design of the sport.

The official name for all rollerblading or for “blading” sporting is actually inline roller skating or inline skating. The correct name for any rollerblades that are manufactured by a company other than Rollerblade, Inc. is inline skates or simply skates, rather than rollerblades or blades. If you are actually using Rollerblade, Inc. brand skates, then you really are rollerblading. If you are using any other type of skates, then the proper description for the sport is skating or inline skating. The difference between typical skating and inline skating is, of course, the arrangement of the wheels on your skates. This is because inline skates are skates where four wheels are arranged in a straight line from front to back. Roller skates or quad skates also possess four wheels, but they are arranged in the four corners of the skate instead.

Learning more about the history of inline skating is a good way to generate an appreciation for the sport. You might be surprised at what you learn about how inline skating sports came to be and how the Rollerblade, Inc company managed to successfully market them to the point where “rollerblading” became the common name for the inline skating sport and the true inventors behind the inline skate fell to the wayside.

Photo Credits: Murky1

Originally posted 2009-08-26 03:17:59. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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