February 15th, 2010 — Skating, Surf Skate Wake, Surfing, Wakeboarding
The thrill and action of surf boarding, skate boarding and wake boarding takes skill, practice, and receiving a few bumps and bruises. It also requires good equipment, since no amount of skill can make up for a board past its prime. Choosing the right board is a matter of preference, but there are a couple of things to look for that is common enough to worry about.
Skateboarding –
The most important thing in skate boarding, of course, is appropriate padding and helmets. At minimum, a helmet, elbow pads and knee pads.
Once safety is out of the way, the next most important thing is the skate board. We provide access to Alien Workshop, Birdhouse, DarkStar, Enjoi, Volcom, Zephyr, and many more brands. The basic parts of the skate board are the board itself; the trucks, which connect the wheels to the board; and the wheels and bearings, which is what you roll on. The wheels and bearings are important in their function of providing traction with the ground and preventing friction on the axle. Different wheels and bearings will yield differing performances.
The trucks behave in similar manner to the suspension of a car; they allow the wheels to tilt up and down based upon the ground and users weight. Loose trucks will allow the user to steer more easily, but will react poorly with the ground and make balance more difficult. Stiff trucks are easy to balance on, but take more effort to steer with.
The board itself is where many riders get personal. There are an endless variety of board designs, some collectible, but all of them have in common a couple of features. First, there are the spacing between front and rear trucks. This affects the turning and stability of the board. Then there is the grip tape on the top of the board is what helps the rider keep on the board. This itself can host a number of designs.
Wakeboarding –
This sport is similar to water skiing and surfing, where a single board is rode on the wake behind a power boat. The biggest piece of equipment is of course, the wake board. You can find many brands in our store including: Ronix, Hydroslide, Hyperlite, Liquid Force, and OBrien. Its construction involves a buoyant piece of foam, reinforced with resin and fiberglass. Inserted into the board are a number of screws for mounting fins and foot bindings.
The main re-configurability of the board comes from placement of the bindings and fins, and the board geometry. The boards’ length and width can be chosen to make certain maneuvers easier while others will suffer. Then there is the “rocker,” or the bend in the board from head to toe. The main types of rockers are continuous and 3 stage. A 3 stage is similar to a skate board in the distinct bends at two points in the length, while a continuous rocker appears smooth.
When adjusting the location of the bindings and fins, one has to consider balance and control. Both are affected by choices of the binding locations. The fins determine the ability of the wake board to hold onto the wake. There are a number of different kinds of fins that one can install on their board, and each kind will affect the maneuverability of the board and the ability to do tricks.
When it comes to surf boarding, there are just as many variations in a surf board as there are in a wake board. The size and shape of the board is important in terms of maneuverability. There are short, medium “fun-” sized, and long surf boards. The composition of the board is also an important factor. Many boards are now made of foam with either a resin and fiberglass or newer epoxy coating.
Accessories for the board include the fins, which may or may not be interchangeable. The leash is what keeps the surfer and board together. It attaches to the riders ankle and prevents the board from straying too far from the rider in the event of a wipe out. Wax and other materials help the rider to stay on the board. In case of colder waters, the surfer may opt to wear a wetsuit and gear appropriate to not suffer from hypothermia.
Whether your favorite hobby is surfing the biggest waves, skating the most exciting tricks or wake boarding with your friends, having the right equipment and gear really does make all the difference. When you have the right equipment and you know how to use it, that is when you can truly take these exciting activities to a completely new level. The primary concern behind our SurfSkateWakeboard.com website is to provide you with a connection to the absolute finest that surfing, skating and wake boarding have to offer in terms of apparel, equipment and accessories. If you are serious about taking one of these endeavors to the next level, or even two or three, then browsing our shops Surf Shop, Skate Store, and Wakeboarding Equipment is an excellent avenue to pursue. Regardless of whether you are looking for the best swim trunks or the highest quality name brand surf board, professional skates or skate boarding gear or a helmet that fits properly, or a wake board that will give you the best possible wake boarding experience, we know what you need and we can give it to you.
SurfSkateWakeboard.com is designed to connect people who are serious about activity and adventure with the gear and accessories that they need to get things done. We know that you want to perfect the sport you are so passionate about, and that is why we are working so hard to connect you with the gear that you need. We are serious about providing you with top of the line, name brand gear, so if you really are serious about having the best of the best, this is the gear store that you have been looking for.
Photo Credits: 1
Originally posted 2008-09-15 13:42:01. Republished by Blog Post Promoter
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February 14th, 2010 — Skating, Surf Skate Wake
The Core
The core of the wheel is comprised of the hub and the spokes. The bearings and spacers are housed inside the inner hub. The spokes and outer hub are what the polyurethane itself is attached to.
The way the core is designed, and the materials from which the wheel is constructed are what give the wheel its stability. These same two things are also what give the wheel its strength. Aggressive wheels tend to have a solid core, while racing wheels tend to be lightly spoked. Your standard hub is generally called a 608 hub, meaning it takes a standard 608 type bearing.
The Profile
The definition of profile is the wheel’s cross section where the wheel and the ground meet, as viewed head on. This profile is what determines the amount of wheel in contact with the ground while being ridden.
Per industry standards, all inline skate wheels are twenty four millimeters thick. However, it is the variation in your wheel’s footprint that provides your wheel with different functionality. The larger the wheel’s footprint is, the better stability and traction it has.
Selecting Your New Wheels
The hardness of the wheel and the size of the wheel are the two biggest factors, so you have to base the choice you make on these two properties. The core does have a significant influence, but it is more subtle. You will want to make your core and profile choices after you have decided on what hardness and diameter you want.
Choosing a Hardness
The harder your wheel is, the longer it will last, but the less grip it will have, and the more road shock and vibration you will feel. The average recreational skater will use wheels between78A and 82A. These ratings generally provide a good balance of grip and shock absorption. That said, you do not have to use the same amount of hardness for all the wheels on each skate. If for the first set of wheels you do use the same wheels all around, you will likely find that different wheels wear in a different pattern or rate. For instance, my wheels always wore the most under the heel, and graduated evenly up to the toe, which wore the least. The heel also wore flatly, while the toe wheels wore more wedge shaped. To combat this, you can use differing durometers of wheels to even out the wear.
Picking a Size
In general, wheels between 72mm to 80mm are appropriate for recreational or fitness skaters. Lighter skaters will find 72mm appropriate, while mid-weight skaters will generally want 76mm. Heavier skaters will want 80mm or larger. You will also want the larger diameter wheel if you plan to speed skate, are going to be going long distances, or practicing short sprints, something like 84mm or larger will be appropriate.
Just how large a wheel you can use is limited by the design of the skate, so you need to keep that in mind when purchasing your inline skates.
Photo Credits: Paleontour
Originally posted 2009-10-16 03:58:24. Republished by Blog Post Promoter
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November 23rd, 2009 — Skating, Surf Skate Wake, Tips and Tricks
Clean bearings are going to roll smoother, roll faster, and will last much longer than dirty bearings. Dirt and grime foul the bearings and can cause pitting which make rotation uneven and rough. The following paragraphs have instructions for cleaning bearings with removable shields. If you do not have removable shields, then skip the following instructions. Cleaning and lubricating your bearings often will make them last a long time. Also try to avoid getting your bearings wet or sandy, as both of those are particularly bad for bearings.
The tools that you are going to need for this process include a straight pin, a small bowl or a metal pan, a bearing cleaning product, a small brush for cleaning such as a soft or a medium toothbrush, paper towels and clean towels or shop rags.
When dealing with removable shields you are going to want to insert the very tin of the straight pin into the C-rings end, which is responsible for keeping the shield in place on the body of the bearing. You should just gently pry away the C ring toward the middle of the bearing and work the pin around the circle. Now you can remove the shield as slowly as you can, making sure that you are not causing damage.
Now place the bearing in a container and flush it with the cleaner to get rid of contaminates. Citrus based cleaners work particularly well for this purpose. Use the toothbrush to remove grime and dirt. If the bearings happen to be particularly dirty, then this step may need to be repeated. Make sure that the solvent is changed with every rinse.
Once the bearing has been cleaned, make sure that it is patted dry gently using a towel that is clean and free of lint. Place the bearings on a paper towel and give them time to air dry. Now make sure that all of the water has had a chance to evaporate away before you move on to the next step in the process.
Once the bearing is completely dry you can add between one and two drops of a high quality lubricant to the bearing’s inside. A little bit of lubricant can really go a long way. Now you should rotate the bearing in such a way that the lubricant is worked into all of the moving parts, and make sure that all of the balls have been completely and properly covered in the lubricating agent for the best results.
Now replace the shield, placing it on the bearing and allowing the C ring to slip back into the groove that is just next to the shield. Now you can work the C-ring’s remaining length gently and slowly along that fitted groove until it has completely and fully snapped back into place. Now you can put your brand new clean bearings right back on your skates. Make sure that you spin them a bit to make sure that the lubricating agent is distributed evenly and to ensure that all of the wheels are spinning as smoothly as possible.
Photo Credits: joelogon
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November 16th, 2009 — Surf Skate Wake, skateboarding
180 – This is a term that refers to a half rotation.
360 - This is a term that refers to a single full rotation.
540 - This is a term that describes a 540-degree rotation while in the air. This is equal to one and a half full rotations.
720 - This is a term that typically refers to two simultaneous 360-degree turns, either forward or in a backward direction.
900 - This is a term that describes two and a half full rotations.
5-0 Grind - This term describes a type of grind in which the only trick that is grinding is the back truck.
50/50 - This term describes a type of grind in which both of the trucks are grinding.
Abec - This term is used to describe the tolerance rating system that is applied to bearings, designating the level for the bushing’s stress resistance. Higher Abec ratings refer to tighter bearings and lower Abec ratings refer to looser bearings.
Acid Drop – This refers to riding straight off of an obstacle, free falling to the ground.
Air – This is the term that is used to refer to situations where riders are clearing obstacles or jumps.
Alley Oop - This refers to a situation where a trick is being performed in an opposite direction from the direction that the skater is moving in.
Backside - This refers to a situation where a trick or a turn is being executed in a direction that the rider’s back is facing.
Bank - This is any area that is sloped below 90 degrees.
Bearings - There are both inner and outer parts in bearings, and the balls ride on them, making it possible for the wheels to turn.
Blunt - This describes a situation where a trick is being performed and the board’s contact spot with whatever obstacle is being used is the tail area behind the board’s back trucks. The wheels should also be on top of the item in question.
Board – In skateboarding, this is also known as a deck, and is the platform part that all of the hardware is mounted on to. The most common material used for a skateboard deck is maple laminate.
Boardslide or Railslide - This is a trick that involves sliding on an obstacle or a lip where the underside of the board is the contact point.
Brain Bucket – This is a slang term that refers to a helmet.
Caballerial - On flat ground this is a term that describes riding fakie, do an ollie 360 without any grabbing. On a vert ramp, this is a term that describes riding fakie, and doing an ollie 360 without grabbing at the lip. This trick was invented by Steve Caballero
Carve - This is a term that describes making long curving arcs while skating, especially downhill.
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